Good grief it's New Year's Eve

Where did all that spare time go? We have been very busy since we got back organising this year and next year. After many attempts I secured a paid job (YAY) which starts next week, and Robin has arranged his sponsorship (better late than never) and has booked his ticket for the middle of January to head back to Nepal to the apartment he has arranged. He will be busy trekking, making maps, updating the guidebook and who knows what else. Oh yes, he is working on some smartphone apps too which I have helped with (being so smart at such things) and we hope they will be out soon - you will be the first to know.
The credit cards have been getting a bit of a hammering thanks to no job, but I am cheering myself up with the thought of all the POINTS we'll have... I think I know where my first few pays are headed!
Strewth these blasted planes overhead are driving my nuts - it's like the blitzkrieg today!
Our Christmas was a fairly sedate affair with mad nanna on her leave pass from the maximum security twilight facility (and with not a lot of idea what was going on - but she knew who Robin was after 10 months away, still not sure who I am though!).
The Hawaiian party I wrote about 3 weeks ago was fun - there were some really bad outfits there, and interesting uses of palm trees.
I have my new iPhone 4s now and I love love love it. And it has a sparkly pink protector in case I drop it.
Just before Xmas I was cleaning the oven (a pyrolitic one which heats up to about 500 celsius) when the inner door glass broke. Into about 10 million pieces. Fantastic. First time we've had to clean the oven with a vacuum cleaner! When I rang the manufacturer on the Monday the woman said "oh we are only sending someone out if you are using the oven to cook Xmas lunch. Are you cooking Xmas lunch?" so of course I said YES. Otherwise I'd be waiting for weeks. And they fixed it for free. How kind.
And of course what has kept me sane has been the cricket - the chance to sit back and enjoy Australia beating India (especially when I won a $10 bet with my Indian friend)  is worth being under employed. I am still not sure if I should go double or nothing on my bet with Adi, as I think the only game India are likely to win will be Sydney. Must give that more thought. Pity I only get to go to day 1 and day 5 (if it lasts that long) of the Sydney test thanks to my new job.
My highlight for this year which is rapidly disappearing into the sunset would have to be getting my 2nd eye done (not that the op was such a highlight considering the anaesthetic didn't work) because I can now see better than I have been able to since I was about 4 years old. And that was not yesterday! And Robin's highlight was definitely being able to complete the Manali to Srinagar trek, which everyone told him could not be done.
Well I hope you are looking forward to a great NYE wherever you are and whatever you do. Stay safe, don't drink more than a bucketful of anything and see you all next year when there will be more thrills and spills on the GHT - this time with more India, Nepal and maybe even some exciting news for Pakistan.

Happy Vijaya Dashami

That's right it's festival time again. And in honour of it I have spent a few hours renovating the blog. I hope you like it. All the links you click on should also now open in a new page... Marvellous.
Back to the festival. Every Nepali is rushing to get back to their village, and the transport 'entrepreneurs' are charging outrageous sums of money for old folks to even perch on a wooden stool in the aisle of a crappy bus. Dashain lasts for 15 days, and today is the day to worship Durga. Dashain will be followed as usual by Tihar aka Diwali, which is my personal favourite. Many years ago we were adopted into a family here and every year my bhai (little brother) looks forward to us coming to his house to celebrate. It is a lovely festival and everyone can participate. So I must make sure that I return from India in time for Puru and I to spend the day together. That way he's happy and I get a present. Probably another pashmina cos a girl can never have too many.
Ssshhh! We have to be quiet because Robin is practising his talk for tonight. So many people have been invited and said they will be coming that it could be standing room only.
And just in time for the festival the rain has stopped. Hooray. And yes I have lots of washing on the balcony.
Yesterday was World Tourism Day and so the brilliant Nepal Tourism Board organised some things but frankly I don't know why. The first 3 foreigners to arrive at the airport got a free meal or something. Lame. Oh and Sams bar was allowed to stay open for one night only till 2am. Verena said she couldn't be bothered for just one night.
The GHT was officially launched yesterday too... yes I know we have been doing it for years. I can't explain why it has taken so long. Check out our Facebook page for more, and some updated info on the earthquake.
Robin reckons I should join Facebook, something I have vehemently avoided so far. Any thoughts?
I have a photo to put on the blog for you but today I am on the ipad so I can't, because Robin has his presentation on the laptop. But I promise you it will be worth the wait.
I had better start paying attention to the presentation or else!
Bye for now and enjoy the festival!

Sunday musings

Why are Sundays so universally uninteresting, wherever you are in the world?
Well, following on from the other day when I wondered about the free sample of incontinence pads in the mailbox, yes we all got them but nobody knows why. None of us admit to needing them right now. Mind you, they're handy for the travel first aid kit to cover a big wound or burn. Just don't tell the patient what they really are!
Well, I've still not had a call from Robin but SPOT keeps me informed. And Bob is now back in San Fran trying to get ready to face the world. It seems there may be one or two logistical SNAFUs that I may have to deal with from afar. Despite certain assurances to the contrary by the guy employed to logisticate, Robin DOES need a permit for where he is going, and of course he doesn't have one. And doesn't know that he needs one. So, I have been sending him SMSs to say be careful, hide in bushes etc but I don't know if he has received the messages. The assistant logistician is trying to get the paperwork to checkpoints etc, but judging on current form I'm none to hopeful of success. My last message to Robin this morning instructed him to press the SEND HELP button on SPOT if he gets arrested by the army or the border police, and I'll get onto someone with BRAINS in Delhi. Like the Embassy. Cos I will know exactly where he is. Just one issue - I don't know whether Robin used his Aussie or Pom passport for India. And I need to know in case of any problem.....
Meanwhile, Katje and Henk made it to Simikot and the weather has taken a turn for the monsoonal. Not good news.
And Nepal has ONCE AGAIN failed to draft a constitution in time. So the 601 erudite members of parliament (oxygen wasting boofheads as you may recall) have given themselves another 3 months to stop arguing and do something. Anything. Nothing. Who cares? Not them. What that country needs is a damn good dictatorship and a few hundred pollies up against the wall.
I went to visit mum today at the hostel and was really impressed with the positive change in her. She seems far less batty (maybe because there are so many totally batso people there) and quite happy and healthy. Which is fantastic.
On the way home stuck in traffic on the M2 I had a good chuckle over a car number plate: SIKRX7. Yes mate, I'm sure your car is FULLY SIK - especially as it was on a tow truck when I saw it. SICK!!
My friend Billi climbed Lhotse the other day, as did Robin's old uni chum Simon, but on Everest north side where Andrew Lock and our friend Jamie are, the weather has taken a turn for the worse so they have been foiled in their attempts by all accounts. Not my idea of a good time.
And finally, article in Wanderlust magazine about the GHT and Brave Sir Robin. Enjoy.
I'm cold - time to shut the doors and do some ironing!

Another wild Saturday night

Woo hoo! Managed to find a video streaming download of the ICC World Cup final between India and Sri Lanka, which of course Robin is watching in Hauz Khas. So it's kinda like we are together, except I am also watching Pretty Woman - can't get enough of Richard Gere. YUM. And all that shopping!
Did I tell you that I finally got a copy of Robin's guide book and if you look closely on pages 50 and 92-93 you will find some of my contributions. Which of course are excellent. And fascinating.
Robin is busy finalising his route for the India GHT which will kick off in a week or so. 
Somewhat astoundingly I am STILL number one in the work footy tipping. Obviously it pays to know absolutely nothing about rugby league. Give me Super 15 rugby any day, and well done to the Tahs and my Phil for last night's excellent effort.
Meanwhile, I have had a busy week of work and zumba. Must tell you... the other night I got home from work, fed the cat and readied the small loungeroom for zumba: chair goes in the hall and coffee table heads towards the fireplace. As I am whizzing (well sort of) left to right across the loungeroom, Lakshmi the Wonder Cat is charging up and down (ie directly across my path) from the back of the house to the front. Directly across my path. Makes for a very thrilling exercise effort. And dangerous.
Seems the weather in Sydney is slowly turning autumnal - not that any of the leaves are turning, just dropping to the ground. But the evenings are cool and dew is around in the mornings.  Puss is getting fluffier too.
I have had to give Robin lessons via phone about life in Hauz Khas. I was chatting to him today when he mentioned that Hydra the cat had wandered into the kitchen and jumped onto the bench near the sink. So I told him that she wanted a drink (old readers will remember this from last year)  that she likes to drink out of the tap, and he should just turn it on low and let her drink. He was laughing his head off (after he decided I wasn't taking the mickey) at her antics. I can't believe I have to tell him all this stuff! Hopefully he will get the video camera for tomorrow so we can all enjoy it!
Right then, I'm off to the front room office to check out the cricket score.

Stay beautiful - like this wonderful ornamental Gau from the Royal family of Lo Manthang. I love it!
India zindabar!

There goes another week

Beautiful Olang

And Robin has almost finished his stint at leading stage 1 of the World Ex GHT Traverse. Today they are headed to the Nango La with Olangchungola in their sights. Olang is where my wonderful eye surgeon, Dr Sanduk Ruit, comes from. It's a small place which used to rely on trade with Tibet. Some of my boss Peter's in laws hail from there too. Must get Robin to say hi to them. It's the last biggish place the trekkers will see for a while. After Olang Robin heads off on his own for a bit, while Toni and Greg keep heading towards Makalu and a date with Stephen Venables who is leading the Makalu to Everest part, the most technical of the stages.

Here's a couple of locals from Ghunsa, where they spent 2 nights. Robin was terribly sad to leave Ghunsa yet again, as he found the people so delightful and welcoming there. Although it was Losar and supposed to be a celebration, there was not too much partying as there had been many deaths in the village the previous year. They had a goat for dinner as well as some rakshi - no party is complete without goat curry and rakshi. The school kids turned up to sing for them, and not just the usual songs. Apparently one little boy had made up a song about why you should be clean and wash your hands! How gorgeous. Some kids also came in fancy dress of wild animals - one little darling arrived dressed as a giraffe. Don't ask me how they managed to think that one up but I think we would all do well to beware the High Altitude Giraffes of Makalu!
On the home front it was a hectic week at work and then on Friday, just as I was looking forward to getting home and going across the road for Steve's birthday and the Super Rugby (the Tahs lost) I got stuck on Sydney's busted public transport system. It took me almost 3 times as long to get home on the stupid train. Got home, opened the mailbox and found a phone bill for $398 for the MONTH thanks to having to call Robin on the sat phone. Gawd! Thank heavens I don't have to do that for much longer.
I am pleased to report that I have had 100% accuracy with my weather forecasts for him, thanks in no small part to this wonderful website. Combined with my other sites of choice it seems almost foolproof. Let's see if it stays that way.
Mother has decided to be difficult now. We have a nurse come to her place morning and evening to make sure she has her tablets and something to eat, as well as a shower and any other things that need doing.Well, Edna May has decided she doesn't 'need' it, and so locks the place up and closes the blinds and hides so the nurse can't get in. And doesn't take her tablets or eat meals. She won't be long out of care if she keeps that caper up. But try telling her that.
Life goes on...

Lovely day to walk to Chiruwa

So Robin tells me anyway. They got to their destination yesterday in good time and were able to have a swim in the river (very briefly apparently!) before  10 hour sleep.
Today they are headed for Chiruwa, where they will be in a gorge and possibly out of phone range.
For anyone who doesn't know the area, here's a link to a map of Kanchenjunga. They started at Taplejung which is on the left hand side, inbetween grid G and H. Follow the dotted yellow line (the left hand side one) north and you will see where they are going. Sorry the map isn't very large but you should be able to make out enough detail to follow.
Welcome to my new follower Don - I hope you enjoy.
I think it is time for me to head to the swimming pool - it's way too steamy here now and I can't be bothered doing any more jobs. I've already had my bizarre visit with mum today and think I need to float for a bit to recover from it.

The GHT is underway at last

I spoke to Robin a few hours ago and the happy trekkers were just emerging for breakfast in delightful Taplejung before loading up and heading off towards Kanchenjunga. The weather is OK and the views were, apparently, quite good. However the road from Bhadrapur was awful and so they had to travel very slowly. Well, they won't have to worry about that for a while now.
I am doing weather reports once again, and it looks as though although it will be very cold, there won't be any snow or rain at in the next 4-5 days. More than that I cannot say.
Here is an article from the Nepal media about the trip.
I still don't have the info about the BBC Radio interview with Jo Jolly - perhaps she's run out electricity! Everyone else there has by the sounds of it.
Those of you who haven't signed up for Robin's GHT newsletter won't know about the gofundraise site, where all donations for the GHT will be sent.
Also, World Expeditions will be doing a blog based on sat phone calls from the guides - first cab off the rank will be Brave Sir Robin. Click here to check it out (though they've not got anything at the time of this posting - but it should be there in the next day or so).  
Meanwhile, the life of a city office worker continues for yours truly. Had to do the grocery shopping at the Village of the Damned this morning - always so enjoyable.  Yesterday one of my mates at work got handed this menu for a local Indian restaurant and I couldn't resist this - though I may never actually order it.

Time for more hilarious house cleaning.

I CAN SEE!!!!!

I am thrilled to the back teeth (fillings included) to report that the operation was a success. And not scary. The scary part was the local anaesthetic injections in/around the eye. Well the first one anyway. Lucky I made them give me some diazepam or I would have run a mile. Actually I probably couldn't have considering I didn't have my glasses on and was wearing the Nepali version of a hospital gown - purple baggy too short trousers and a short kurta top with fetching hat thing like the North Korean nuclear scientist sport. Lovely. And no, I didn't have a photo. The doctor did 52 cataracts yesterday morning, and I was of course the only foreigner so I made lots of new friends who I got to see again this morning at the clinic. We were all smiling from ear to ear today, instead of looking scared like yesterday.
Dr Ruit  told me he would only take 6 or 7 minutes to do the op and that was true. My friends who came with me got to watch it on the big telly outside the theatre and they were pretty impressed. They were also glad it wasn't happening to them! I didn't feel a thing and it was rather fascinating to see through the murk what was happening. And I am a WUSS so anyone can do it. Really! I have another eyepatch till Sunday - I have to boil it every morning for 15 mins to stave off infection, and of course I have some more stinging eye drops 5 times a day. But the care I received was second to none. And a bargain compared to home.

Just after the op when I got home

yo ho ho and a bottle of rum

Here's how stupid reading glasses look over an eye patch

So now I'm relaxing at my friend's place in Budhanilkantha, overlooking the valley and the smog, lazing in the sun drinking cups of tea and supervising the pets. It's tough.
2 nights here then back to the mayhem for more clinic visits and social engagements. It's a wonder I have time for anything these days.

On a serious note, if any of you are ever thinking of donating to a worthy cause but can't think which one, please consider the Fred Hollows Foundation. They help people with sight problems all over the world, and they make the intra ocular lenses that will one day replace yours if you get cataracts. And you are helping a person with no income get their eyesight and livelihood back.
Time to go back into the sun and maybe put some more eyedrops in. Robin is somewhere near Yari today - I wasn't really paying attention when he called yesterday as I was too excited about ME!
Of course I have to thank everyone at Tilganga who looked after me (and all the other patients there) as well as my friends and family here: my excellent bhai Puru and niece Yashu who came with me to the hospital and held my hand, Uttam for walking me out for dinner and drinks last night, Rafi and Petra for being seen in public with me, and Sam, Stephen Darling, Verena, Clare and all the others who offered help. And Robin, next time you have to come with me!
bye for now

sunshine and rickshaws

there's lots of both here right now. and also squillions of people - most of the hotels are full and I had to wait over an hour for a meal last night. Even the bar was full by 6.10 when I got there.
So where were we up to? I remember, I had been to the hospital. OK, so now I am putting eyedrops in 4 times a day to stave off infection (yes they sting too) and I am confining myself to a very small range of places as my eyesight seems to have clapped out completely now that I know I'm getting it fixed up. Typical. We have gorgeous weather 25-27 and bright sun (wish I could wear my sunnies) in the day, but the last few nights have been really cool at 11 degrees. So I have busied myself sorting out the clothes for cooler weather. And lounging around as I feel I should practice for after the op when I have been told to do nothing strenuous, don't go trekking, don't lift anything. Oh well if you insist doctor!
Robin and the boys have been enjoying the trek so far - they spent last night in a place called Timure - trouble is there are 2 of those in the same area so I'm not sure which one they are in - but they did go to a local hot springs to relax. The weather for them is also very good but I expect the clear skies make it very cold in a tent after dark. 
I have also been busy transferring movies from the enormous multi terrabyte hard drive Geoff brought over, so that I could be entertained in times of patheticness and no power. There's some great movies there that I've not seen for years. I have no idea where he gets all these things.
Sadly the internet here at home is crappy as ever, so I have taken Alvin the Apple out for a walk to the Korean restaurant that does great milk drinks. And has decent internet. Oh speaking of which there is a rumour that there is a NORTH KOREAN restaurant in town. I wonder what they serve - fermented gravel with dirt? Some of us are toying with going there for a laugh instead of for a meal.
The restaurant I'm in right now is directly opposite the spooky 'China's Tibet Bookstore' which seems to have been set up by the propaganda wing of the PLA of the PRC. If you know what I mean.  Very odd. Also odd is that I am here in Mandala Street, which had a fair on the weekend, and as I was walking through here yesterday I was accosted by a panda - which has nothing to do with Nepal but a lot to do with the aforementioned bookstore. I think. Weird.

And here's what I had for lunch yesterday: chocolate brownie sundae with 2 scoops of icecream. YUM Today it's an iced latte.
Later this week some friends will start coming back from the hills so there will be more people to gossip with. Till then I have maybe 4 or so friends here, plus family, and of course the shopkeepers I chat to and have tea in the sun with. It's a pleasant life.
I will also soon have to get cracking on some GHT things - once the eyes get sorted a bit more - and planning a book launch (the new Trailblazer trekking in Nepal and GHT book) in December. I must also remember to change our plane tickets home.
We've just had some electrical shenanigans here with the power going off and the generator needing to be set.
Right then I'm off to confidently predict some weather.....